![]() Those proficient in Photoshop can also stack images, but the technique is a best left for another post.In this tutorial, we'll learn how to do focus stacking in Photoshop! Focus stacking, or focus blending, means taking a series of images, each with a different part of your scene or subject in focus, and blending them together into a single image where your entire scene or subject is in focus. Each pass creates a different view of the same batch of photos, so experiment (have I mentioned that before? □ ) Image Stacker will produce a jpg, bmp or tif file in the location of your choice. You may also average all the images of just use the brightest pixel from the batch to create an image. Individual starts, when moving across black sky, will combine to create the lines that are so captivating. Anything reflecting light in all images in the batch will show as especially bright in the final image. The premise here is the program will take your batch of photos and then add them all together to render the final image. A quick Google search can provide other options as well. Astrophotographers have even more advanced tools they can suggest depending on needs. It is by no means the end all be all, however I have found it very simple to use with great results. The program I’ve found great success with is TawbaWare’s Image Stacker. Now it’s time to let a computer take over. A lot of fun can be had adding effects to the foreground. For more on painting with light, check out DPS’s post Tips on How To Light Paint. Only one frame is needed because of the stacking method. If you have an item in the foreground, there are light painting techniques that can be used to highlight them. As a point of reference, the image at the top of this post is a combination of shots over the course of 57 minutes. Keep shooting until you have as many images as you desire. This effect can actually be used to your advantage if you become real creative, just make sure it’s intentional. Large breaks will cause blank spots in the trails. ![]() As the Earth is always moving and those stars keep walking across the sky, you’ll want to keep your shutter releases as close to the end of the last shot as possible. And a remote shutter release if you have one. This is where the patience and warm clothes come in. Aperture should be as open as you can stand it based on placement of subjects and required depth of field. I’ve found optimal shutter lengths to be between 10 and 30 seconds, but some cameras work well with the shutter open for one or two minutes. For me, shots in pitch black over 30 seconds will show ‘hot spots’ on the sensor colored points that repeat in the same location picture after picture. I’ve found my camera gets increased sensor noise on longer shots. Shutter speed can be set as low (or high, depending on your point of view) as 1 second or the shutter held open for minutes at a time. A few options will be discussed at the end of this post as well as in the comments section. ![]() Image stacking software allows for the overlay of multiple images while combining the details. This is the best unattended setup if you wish to wait some place warm while your camera takes care of the pictures. A good timer will allow for setting of the shutter speed, number of shots and interval between shots. ![]() If the remote has a timer function it is golden for use with this type of photography. The remote shutter release unit is best used to reduce camera shake from pressing the shutter release button as it is used off camera (some are even cordless).
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